Kölsch is not just beer – it’s the whole Cologne culture. This is easy to understand when you see the intensity with which people approach it on the spot. Stunning, giant brewery restaurants full of history and joyful fellowship – whatever the day. It’s telling that locals often have their weddings in their local pubs. For the beer lover, Kölsch is a light and refreshing thirst quencher made in a very refined way, which tastes heavenly fresh and cold in a Cologne brewery restaurant. In the words of Bill Clinton: Ich bin ein Kölsch!
Kölsch combines the best of ale and lager styles
Kölsch is a pale, top fermenting beer, also known as an “ale”. Unlike most ales, Kölsch is matured in cool conditions. This cold storage phase is called lagering and can last for several weeks. In the cooler state, the lagering of the beer takes place more slowly, so that the beer does not develop the sweet and fruity aromas typical of ales. Instead, Kölsch becomes fresh, dry and has a clean, malty taste. Because cold-fermentation is typical of lagers, Kölsch can be said to combine the best of ale and lager styles – it is the perfect hybrid.
Kölsch is a pale, full attenuated, hopped and clear top-fermented beer that must be brewed in accordance with the German beer purity law, the Reinheitsgebot. It has a gravity of 11-14 degrees Plato (specific gravity 1,044-1,056) – Kölner Brauerei-Verbandes e.V.
Kölsch beer has its roots in the Middle Ages, but the current Kölsch was born in the early 20th century, when local breweries began to develop a lighter and fresher alternative to darker German beers. The Kölsch Convention, an association of brewers, obtained official EU name protection (PGI) for Kölsch in 1997, defining the current form of Kölsch: a surface yeast beer brewed and stored in or near Cologne. In the early days, a Kölsch brewery had to be located within sight of Cologne Cathedral. Today, the definition is within a 50 km radius.
The way Kölsch beer is served is an experience in itself
Kölsch is also exported abroad in cans and bottles. It is also good in packages, but admittedly they are a completely different product from what they are when tasted straight from the oak barrel. The way Kölsch beer is served is an experience in itself for anyone visiting Cologne. Traditionally, the beer is poured from 10 litre Pittermännchen kegs into narrow 0,2 litre Stange glasses. The waiters are called Köbes and carry the beers on a special tray; the Kranz, which can hold up to twenty glasses at a time. Fresh glasses are automatically brought to the table until you put a coaster on the glass to signal that you don’t want any more. Each glass served is marked with a line on the coaster and then the lines are simply added up. Convenient and downright German efficient!
Overview of Cologne’s brewery restaurants
Cologne’s main restaurant destinations are conveniently located along a couple of kilometres of walking trail, so you can also get around on foot. If the city centre tourism starts to take your breath away, the breweries also have dedicated restaurants further away from the centre.
Brauhaus FRÜH am Dom
There are block restaurants, and then there are block-sized restaurants. Brauhaus FRÜH am Dom is one of the latter. A stone’s throw from the cathedral, FRÜH’s main restaurant stands in front of you as a massive and dignified stone monument. Next door, of course, is a hotel and the indispensable souvenir shop. The restaurant itself is a labyrinthine structure, with several floors and countless different halls. The Saturday night tourist trade was at an unbelievable level. There were far more people than the whole establishment could accommodate. Needless to say, a table reservation is a must. The cuisine is very simple traditional food, but it is simmered over time, tasty and hearty. Früh Kölsch is a fantastic and delicious beer. Lightly foamy, very pale and freshly hopped. This is one of the most elegant beers on the tour.
Gaffel am Dom
Bahnhofsvorplatz 1, 50667 Cologne
Standing right at the foot of the cathedral, the stately grey stone building houses Gaffel’s main restaurant. The interior is modern and sleek, and the pub is also massive in size. On weekends, it’s also packed to the rafters. Gaffel opens early, so for breakfast you can enjoy a traditional rye roll with gouda cheese and a Kölsch. The food is excellent from morning to night. Gaffel Kölsch is a delicious, slightly more malty and bitter beer. It is an excellent food drink. And for thirst. And also for breakfast.
Brauhaus Sion
Unter Taschenmacher 5-7, 50667 Köln (Altstadt)
On the way down from the church, Brauhaus Sion is the first Kölsch restaurant in the Old Town. The maze-like building has several different halls full of diners. The restaurant is a popular venue for private parties. If you’re not hungry, there’s also a bar room where you can watch the waiters endlessly trot out the Kölsch barrels. Fill up the Kranz and head back to the lounge. Sion Kölsch is herbal, malty and biting. It is medium bitter and pleasantly fresh.
Peters Brauhaus
In the heart of Cologne’s city centre, in the Old Town, you’ll find the Peters Brauhaus restaurant. It is a relatively large installation with a uniquely stunning Tiffany glass ceiling in one of the halls. A favourite haunt of Colognians, both for beer and food. Peters Kölsch is quite a light beer. Very easy and inoffensive to drink.
Ausschank Brauerei zum Pfaffen
Near the river, on the edge of Heumarkt Square, you’ll find a narrow, bright orange house. A modestly sized terrace and modestly sized rooms, on two floors. Small lounges at the back of the restaurant and some sort of courtyard terrace too. The Pfaffen Kölsch is a little more golden in colour, a nicely frothy treat. Good malt, hoppy freshness and excellent bitterness. Certainly the tastiest Kölsch of the tour.
Brauerei zur Malzmühle
Heumarkt 6, 50667 Köln, Germany
A stone’s throw south of Heumarkt Square is the Malzmühle brewery restaurant – the beers are still made in Cologne, at Gebrüder Sünner brewery, which Malzmühle bought in 2020. The Malzmühle brewery has been family-owned since 1858 and is the second oldest existing Kölsch brewery. Inside, the modestly sized, two-storey restaurant is packed with locals for lunch on a Sunday afternoon. Mühlen Kölsch is a distinctly malt-driven, slightly stronger drink. However, the sweet maltiness is balanced by good bitters. An excellent drink for food.
Sünner im Walfisch
Salzgasse 13, 50667 Köln, Germany
There is no mistaking on the Fasad. Now we’re going to a German restaurant! The restaurant is on several floors and is also very picturesque inside with its lofts, staircases and halls. And of course the food doesn’t disappoint. If you’ve got the stomach for it, order the Cologne tapas, which offers all the delicacies typical of the region. Including raw pork mince as a tartar! Sünner Kölsch has a very fruity aroma. It has a mildly fresh, bitter and dry aftertaste. A rather simple Kölsch style.
Brauerei Päffgen
Friesenstraße 64-66, 50670 Köln, Germany
A little way from the city centre, in a small alley, there is a busy door. Päffgen can be called the original brewpub, as the beer is still made on the premises, as it has been since 1883. The beer is carried along the narrow bar corridor to the counter and on to the restaurant’s lounge, which looks 19th century splendour; dark wood panelling and tiffany glass. The restaurant has also retained original historic dishes on its menu. Many Cologne residents say this is the best Kölsch. And on weekends, there’s no going in without a reservation. Päffgen Kölsch is light, unfiltered (a bit hazy) and very scarcely aromatic at first, but after a while you begin to appreciate its restrained beauty. Like a Pinot Noir of beers!
Last Updated on May 29, 2025 by Flavorado
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